The Copenhagen restaurant Noma, frequently recognized as one of the world's best, is preparing to reopen next Wednesday under new leadership for the first time since its co-founder and star chef, René Redzepi, stepped down. His departure followed a series of accusations regarding physical and psychological abuse within the workplace.
Pablo Soto, who has served at the restaurant for nearly a decade, has been appointed as the new executive head chef. Soto noted that while the establishment remains "the same Noma," there have been significant operational changes. The restaurant is moving away from its previous model of three seasonal menus—seafood in winter, vegetables in spring and summer, and forest and game in autumn—in favor of a dynamic, evolving monthly menu. Furthermore, Soto emphasized a heightened priority on staff wellbeing, ensuring that the team of approximately 100 employees can maintain a balance between their professional duties and their personal lives, including hobbies, pets, and raising children.
The allegations against Redzepi surfaced earlier this year during the launch of a pop-up in Los Angeles, detailing abusive working conditions between 2009 and 2017. Former employees reported incidents of screaming, punching, and public shaming, with one individual describing the work environment as feeling "like going to war." In response, Redzepi apologized to those who suffered under his leadership, stating that while he did not recognize every detail of the accounts, he acknowledged that his past behavior was harmful. He subsequently resigned from his nonprofit, MAD, and announced he would step away from the restaurant's daily operations.
Soto clarified that Redzepi is not entirely removed from the company and will continue to offer creative input, though he is no longer involved in day-to-day management. Responsibility for daily operations now rests with Soto, chief executive Annika de Las Heras, and head of research and development Mette Brink Søberg. Soto emphasized that he is not simply stepping into Redzepi’s former role, noting that the restaurant remains Redzepi’s, even as the founder shifts his focus toward other creative ventures.
Since its inception in 2003, Noma has been awarded three Michelin stars and ranked as the world’s best restaurant five times. Although the restaurant had planned to transition into a food laboratory after closing in 2024, the team ultimately decided to reopen as a restaurant following the international fallout from the allegations. Soto expressed confidence in the restaurant's future, citing the retention of the long-serving team as the primary indicator of stability. When it reopens, the menu will be priced at 4,500 DKK per head, with an optional 2,000 DKK wine pairing, featuring ingredients such as berries, flowers, and sweet seafood, before transitioning to wild mushrooms, game, and red shellfish by October.
